Document Type : .

Authors

1 MA in Photography, Soore University, Tehran, Iran

2 Assistant Professor of Art faculty , Sistan and Baluchistan University, Zahedan, Iran

Abstract

Historical photographs are essential tools utilized to study and analyze the social history of different periods; in addition to providing visual information, they have implicit implications for other senses, including the sense of taste. Extracting elements related to the taste in photographs and matching them with the written sources can reveal the relationship between the social position and the sense of taste, the way of cooking, the ingredients, and the way of serving the food. Many photographs taken in the Qajar period include elements and behaviours related to the foods. In the current article, using the social history of the senses to analyze photographs, we examined the sense of taste in photographs of different social classes in the Qajar period. The critical question of this research is: "what are the differences in the sense of taste in various social classes in the Qajar era, and how is it reflected in the social photographs of the same period?" The results show that in the photographs recorded during this period, food and related elements in the upper of the social class pyramid were used not only to tame hunger but also to present an aesthetic and luxurious aspect and the glory in banquets such as Ashkhoran, an annual feast of the king. In these classes, a large volume of high-quality food is used together in one meal. While the meals of the lower social classes were more uncomplicated and, regardless of aesthetics, were consumed for necessity and urgency.

Keywords

Extended Abstract

Social History of Taste in the Qajar Period through Analyzing Photographs of Different Social Classes

Introduction

Historical photographs are essential tools utilized to study and analyze the social history of different periods; in addition to providing visual information, they have implicit implications for other senses, including the sense of taste. Images can be perceived as multisensory objects by visualizing other senses through sensory memory (Walker, 2016). Extracting elements related to the taste in photographs and matching them with the written sources can reveal the relationship between the social position and the sense of taste, the way of cooking, the ingredients, and the way of serving the food.

Humans never consider an object consumptive and constantly interfere in them. The way of Modifying things causes differences between different social classes (Bourdieu, 1998: 80). Food and everything related to it are objects that give a person a social identity by changing and occupying it. The social history of the taste has always been of interest to historians (Almerico, 2014; Civitello, 2008; Krishnblatt, 1999) and researchers in the field of art and literature (Hasanpūr, 2019; Karimi, Alāmi Mehmāndūsti and Mobāshri, 2013; Walker, 2016).

Many photographs taken in the Qajar period include elements and behaviors related to the foods. Also, the effects of the transition to the modern era in the Qajar period on the people's perceptions are significant. In the current article, using the social history of the senses to analyze photographs, we examined the sense of taste in photographs of different social classes in the Qajar period.  In this way, it is possible to understand people of different classes' experiences facing sensory stimuli like foods in this period. The critical question of this research is: "what are the differences in the sense of taste in various social classes in the Qajar era, and how is it reflected in the social photographs of the same period?"

Methodology: This study aims to analyze the sense of taste in different classes of the Qajar period using the social history of the sense of taste. The social history of the sense of taste as a method of analyzing photos allows the historians and researchers to extract elements related to the food-the way of cooking, serving and eating food, Tools related to the act of eating, and the type of food consumed in different social classes-which is present in the implicit layers of the photos. It helps pay attention to the taste people related to various social categories experienced and reveals helpful information about people's daily lifestyles.

Results: According to the photographs recorded during this period, food and related elements in the upper of the social class pyramid were used not only to tame hunger but also to present an aesthetic and luxurious aspect and the glory in banquets such as Ashkhoran, an annual feast of the king. In these social classes, a large volume of high-quality food is used together in one meal. While the meals of the lower social classes were consumed for necessity. Also, the volume of food in the upper-class of society photos are more so that there is no space on their tablecloths. While in the photos of the lower classes of society, simpler foods and empty tablecloths can be seen, regardless of their aesthetic aspect, only to satisfy hunger and without any rituals. The fruit is present in the upper social classes' photographs, along with numerous types of food. However, it was sometimes used as a main meal among the lower social classes. Rice is always an inseparable element in the meal of the upper classes and the king.

Imported modernity in the Qajar period is also seen in the eating habits of Iranians. This change started in the upper class of society and the court and spread to people in other social classes. Of course, this modernity has an incomplete combination with traditional elements, which indicates the transition stage.

Conclusion: Analyzing existing photographs from the Qajar period and matching them with the written sources reveal the sense of taste in different classes of society and the way they perceive the world. Undoubtedly, taste and choice of food, eating habits, etc., are related to culture, economic issues and access to ingredients. Therefore, the type of food, its amount and the way it is consumed are different in various social classes, which can be clearly seen in the available photos. Also, food and everything related to it are objects that give a social identity to the person by changing and occupying it.

Abrāhāmian, Ervānd (2018). Iran between Two Revolutions. Kāzem Firuzand and Mohsen Modirshānechi (trans.). Tehran: Markaz.
Almerico, Gina M. (2014). "Food and identity: Food studies, cultural and personal identity". Journal of International Business and Cultural Studies, Vol. 8. United States, Ponte Vedra Beach: Academic and Business Research Institute pub.
Barret, Terry (2016). Criticizing Photographs. trans. Esmāil Abbāsi & Kavve Mirabbāsi. Tehran: Markaz.
Bird, F. L. (1921). "Modern Persia and its Capital. The National Geographic Magazine". XXXIX,) 4(, 353-416.
Bosco, E. (2018). A taste of identity: Food, Material Culture and Materiality in an Exibition of the Museum of Chinese in America. Master Thesis Atrs and Culture Musums and collections. Netherland: Leiden University.
Bourdieu, Pierre (2015). La Distinction. trans. Hasan Chāvoshiān. Tehran: Sāles.
Bourdieu, Pierre (1998). Practical Reason: on the theory of action. Stanford, California: Stanford University press.
Browne, Edward (2002). A Year amongst the Persians. trans. Māni Sālehi Alāme. Tehran: Māhriz.
Civitello, Linda (2008). Cuisine and culture: a history of food and people. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey.
Dalmani, Henry Rene (1999). From Khorāsān to Bakhtīār. trans. Gholām Rezā Samiʻi. Tehran: Tāvūs.
Dondis, Donis (2011). A Primier of Visual Literacy. trans. Masʻūd Sepehr. Tehran: Sorūsh.
Eskandari-Qajar, Manoutchehr M. (2010). Notices on the Private Life of Naser aldin Shah. Avalailable in academia.edu.
Feuvrier, Jean-Baptiste (2006). Trois ans à la cour de Perse. trans. Abbas Eqbāl. Tehran: Elm.
Hāj Sayāh (1977). Hāj Sayāh Memories. Tehran: Amirkabir.
Hasanpūr, Mohamad (2019). A Social Critique of Social Photographs Based On Styles of Taste Sense. Tahqiqāt-e Tārikh-e Ejtemāi. Vol.9, No.2; Page(s) 1-23.
Hoeltzer, Ernst (1975). Persia in 113 years ago. trans.Mohamad 'Asemi. Tehran: Antropology Center of Iran.
Kāshāni, Soheyl (1962), the History of Kāshān. Edited by: Iraj Afshār. Tehran: Amirkabir.
Karimi, Tāhere; Alāmi Mehmāndūsti, Zolfaqār; Mobāshri, Mahbūbe (2013). Analyzing the sense of taste in Mewlna’s poems. Adabiyat Erfāni Daneshghah Alzahrā, Vol.5, No.9.
Kirshenblatt Gimblett, B. (1999). "Playing to the Senses: Food as a Performance Medium". In: Performance Research, Vol. 4. No. 1. Perullo, N. (2016). Taste as Experience, the Philosophy and Aesthetics of Food. Columbia University Press, New York.
Moayer-Al-Mamālek, Dūst-ali-khān (1982). Notes about Nāser-Al-Din Shāh’s private life. Tehran: Tārikhe Irān.
Mostowfi, Abdollāh (2009). My life’s Description: Qājār era’s social history. Tehrān: Hermes.
Polak, Jakob (1368). Persia and Persians. trans. Keykāvūs Jahāndār. Tehran: Khārazmi.
Qājār Nāser-Al-Din (2010). Nāser-Al-Din Shāh Memories. Abdolhoseyn Navāyi and Elhām Malek Zāde (eds.). Tehran: National Library of Iran.
Rūhāni, Rāhele, Amini, Ali Akbar, Khosravi, Malek Tāj (2019). The Impact of Nasser Al-Din Shah's Personality Characteristics on Iran's Underdevelopment. Pazhūhesh Rāhbordi Siāsat.Vol.8, No.28 (58); pp. 37-64.
Sanger, Alice E., Walker Siv Tove Kulbrandstad (2016). Sense and the Senses in Early Modern Art and Cultural Practice. New York: Taylor & Francis.
Tahmāsbpūr, Mohamad Rezā (2013). Nāser-Al-Din the photographer king. Tehran: Tārikhe Irān.
Walker, Siv Tove Kulbrandstad (2016). "Appetites: Food, Eating and the Senses in Sixteenth-Century Italian Art". In, Alice E. Sanger, Siv Tove Kulbrandstad Walker (Ed.), Sense and the Senses in Early Modern Art and Cultural Practice (109-128). New York: Taylor & Francis.
Wills, Charles James (1989). The Land of the lion and the sun, or, modern Persia. trans. Gholām Hoseyn Qaragozlū. Tehrān: Eqbāl.